AR168D L1-00

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  • bilyahn
    Service Manager

    1,000+ Posts
    • Dec 2006
    • 1467

    #1

    AR168D L1-00

    Interesting problem. Giving the L1 code but the home sensor tests good. Replaced the carraige unit (we broke a lamp playing with it LOL). Scanner tests good. When the unit goes to warm up it cycles fine until it goes to the home position then it "judders" and codes out with the L1. Reseated all of the connectors, removed the fax unit to test still have same issue. Any ideas or suggestions? Haven't done the ROM update yet.

    Thank you for your time and effort in this matter.

    Bil
  • DINGO
    Senior Tech

    500+ Posts
    • Nov 2007
    • 661

    #2
    re

    Hi bilyahn

    I have a strange issue L1-00 some time ago, but in one ar-122, and the problem was in a main board.
    Was one resistance that warmed, and get a bad welding.
    I fix it whith, change the resistance, and i think there are a technical bulletin about this.
    Of corse i am talk about ar-122, may be the same issue in the ar-168.

    good look

    Comment

    • Dark Helmet
      Senior Tech

      Site Contributor
      500+ Posts
      • May 2009
      • 830

      #3
      Im sure you have checked this but make sure the mirror lock is not on or remove the dam thing and cover the hole with some tape. Also make sure that rail is clean as the greese goes funny and becomes very sticky.

      I just tried a scrap AR168 using sim 1-2. when you block the sensor the green LED on the copy function on the left side lights up.

      If you changed the entire unit with the lamps (ive broke those to) you would of replaced your home position sensor as well. I'd try swapping the main board and see if that does any thing.
      Evil will always triumph because good is dumb.

      Comment

      • blackcat4866
        Master Of The Obvious

        Site Contributor
        10,000+ Posts
        • Jul 2007
        • 22929

        #4
        Like Lawrence suggested, the only times I've seen an L1-00 on an AR-168D it was the scanner lock. After the first few, I could phone-fix the majority. Every once in a while I had a customer that couldn't figure out "...it doesn't matter which way. Just turn it the other way, whatever it is set to." And yes, I removed most of my scanner locks within the first year of placement.
        If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
        1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
        2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
        3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
        4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
        5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

        blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

        Comment

        • bilyahn
          Service Manager

          1,000+ Posts
          • Dec 2006
          • 1467

          #5
          Thanks for the replies. That was where we are leaning but thought I would see if there was anything else. Thanks also Lawrence. We always remove those *&^%^$ locks, what a pain in the rear they are.

          Comment

          • Dark Helmet
            Senior Tech

            Site Contributor
            500+ Posts
            • May 2009
            • 830

            #6
            Once i saw the tape that helps hold the cable into the scanner board came off and stuck to the frame and got the cable all bunched up under the scanner and caused some funky ass problems. The scanner would not move to the right side of the carriage as the motor would jam.

            As for that bloody lock, thankfully the AR208's are super hard to turn, it's almost like once you unlock them they are stuck in that position.

            Out of curiosity what are you guys doing on the fusers for this machine? That crap grease sharp puts in gets dirt and toner in it then it starts chewing the bushings and fuser gear up which then gives you this roaring noise. I started putting AR208 fusers in.
            Evil will always triumph because good is dumb.

            Comment

            • OMD-227

              #7
              Originally posted by Lawrence
              That crap grease sharp puts in gets dirt and toner in it then it starts chewing the bushings and fuser gear up which then gives you this roaring noise.
              Sharp grease is Great! Whadarya talkin' 'bout!!!

              I have looked at a few small machines lately (......while you are here scenario's), with a noisy fuser. I found the Barretta spray grease for the MX fuser bearings worked great. Made the small fuser units shut the hell up completely! And all reports from those guys say there has been no fuser problems or noise returning since.

              Comment

              • bilyahn
                Service Manager

                1,000+ Posts
                • Dec 2006
                • 1467

                #8
                Originally posted by Lawrence
                Once i saw the tape that helps hold the cable into the scanner board came off and stuck to the frame and got the cable all bunched up under the scanner and caused some funky ass problems. The scanner would not move to the right side of the carriage as the motor would jam.

                As for that bloody lock, thankfully the AR208's are super hard to turn, it's almost like once you unlock them they are stuck in that position.

                Out of curiosity what are you guys doing on the fusers for this machine? That crap grease sharp puts in gets dirt and toner in it then it starts chewing the bushings and fuser gear up which then gives you this roaring noise. I started putting AR208 fusers in.
                I have had that tape problem on the AR157 as well.

                As for the fuser, We use Ricoh or Sharp ARC150 fuser oil on the bearings and bushings. Seems to work for the most part. Talked to one Ricoh tech who uses 30W oil.

                Comment

                • Bri Ski
                  Technician
                  • Jan 2010
                  • 48

                  #9
                  I had one that the actual ribbon cable to the scanner was the problem. also another when using the glass worked fine but coded when using the feeder. turned out just a good alchohol swab on the home sensor took care of it, even though it tested and worked fine in the glass.

                  Comment

                  • blackcat4866
                    Master Of The Obvious

                    Site Contributor
                    10,000+ Posts
                    • Jul 2007
                    • 22929

                    #10
                    Now that you mention it, I have seen the adhesive peel of the light source and stick to the floor of the scanner. =^..^=
                    If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
                    1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
                    2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
                    3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
                    4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
                    5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

                    blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

                    Comment

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