problems with mx2700n

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  • cetverooki
    Technician

    50+ Posts
    • Nov 2010
    • 53

    #1

    problems with mx2700n

    Hi to all.

    I heave read some posts that are related to this copier, and found similar problems but not exact one.
    Problem that I heave is that after last large print job (1000 pages) unit is printing colors and black not as full coverage but rather with parts of printed page lighter than the rest. (lighter lines of lighter color are appearing on all colors)
    I can upload sim64 prints later.
    I heave replaced main belt and rollers that are for each color (metal ones covered with black plastics), cleaned all rollers on transfer unit and replaced blade.
    All developers were replaced (maintenance) and calibration for toner was performed.
    LSU was cleaned (rotating mirror had accumulated dust on corners).

    All in all i heave done full service on this one but it still refuses to cooperate.


    All help appreciated.

    P.S.
    i heave seen thread about printout going blank after 50 or 100 pages. I will check this today but it seams to be a long-shot.
  • OMD-227

    #2
    Attach a print page of sim 64-01 (A=11, B=2, C=2, D=255) clearly showing the fault. You may need to run that testprint a few times (multiprint value) to get the fault to appear.
    Can tell more from the sample page, as you seem to have covered alot of items already. Possible shutter issue maybe if you are sure devs & primary belt unit are good.

    Comment

    • cetverooki
      Technician

      50+ Posts
      • Nov 2010
      • 53

      #3
      Hi wazza




      That is a print from device. Light spots should not be taken in account since they are defects on belt. I heave used different belts today but got same results (stripes in direction of print). This is a problem that was bugging me. As you can see coverage is not full (there are some spots where toner is missing).

      thx

      Comment

      • cetverooki
        Technician

        50+ Posts
        • Nov 2010
        • 53

        #4
        PS.
        is there any way to repair belt that was folded (had minor accident with part that fell on belt and pressed it to fold)?

        Comment

        • blackcat4866
          Master Of The Obvious

          Site Contributor
          10,000+ Posts
          • Jul 2007
          • 22996

          #5
          Try attaching your documents again. They don't open.

          No, once the belt gets a dimple or fold, it's yours until the next PM. =^..^=
          If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
          1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
          2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
          3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
          4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
          5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

          blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

          Comment

          • OMD-227

            #6
            Yeah, you haven't added the attachments correctly..... nice try though.

            Blackcat is spot on mate..... any mark like that on the belt surface and you're screwed. It will cause either a repeating mark or poor cleaning of th belt at that spot, leaving a repeating stain on each rotation.

            Comment

            • cetverooki
              Technician

              50+ Posts
              • Nov 2010
              • 53

              #7
              MEGAUPLOAD - The leading online storage and file delivery service

              that is a link to files....

              Comment

              • cetverooki
                Technician

                50+ Posts
                • Nov 2010
                • 53

                #8
                i was hoping to salvage since it is new one.... had to ask...

                Comment

                • OMD-227

                  #9
                  The halftone test prints you have supplied shows that the transfer belt is old. There is no way that belt is new. The faults pass through all 4 colors at the same line. That means that the belt surface is worn. You can clearly see this along the bottom of the pages. The whole purpose of that particular test page is it will clearly show if the fault is across the whole page or isolated to a single color. Both test prints show several faults across the whole page at the same line. This can only be the primary transfer belt. Are you sure it was replaced with a new one?

                  There is also many lines caused by the usual drum charge unit wearing out, primarily caused by ozone oxidizing the grid surface. This causes the slightly darker lines through the halftone test print.
                  If the drums are nowhere near due for replacement, you can clean the grid with the green pull-out cleaning lever. Run this back & forth a few times and the fault will disappear for a while.

                  Your main issue here is the primary belt. Abslolutely 100%. They are only very minor faults, and most users would never pick up on this issue at all, but if you are as picky as me on copy quality issues, the primary belt is the problem.
                  If you take the primary belt unit out, you will see fine grooves cut into the belt surface. This is normal with wear & tear, but causes the problem on your testpage. Running the halftone print in 64-01 is a great way of seeing it.

                  Comment

                  • cetverooki
                    Technician

                    50+ Posts
                    • Nov 2010
                    • 53

                    #10
                    Then this is a problem. Belt was new and has printed only 400 pages when lines started to appear. And yes user is picky about print quality. What could cause premature damage of belt? Bad blade (had problems with it when i heave replaced it - it was not cleaning ok) or paper that user was using (120g paper)?

                    Comment

                    • blackcat4866
                      Master Of The Obvious

                      Site Contributor
                      10,000+ Posts
                      • Jul 2007
                      • 22996

                      #11
                      Priming the blade on these transfer units is crucial. Sharp has changed their minds a couple of times as to the best type of prime.

                      Personally, I haven't seen much different regarding the type of prime dust, as long as you very thoroughly dust the top surface of the belt, rotate through to the next section, dust again, and so on until you have heavily dusted the entire surface of the transfer belt. It's not very easy to turn the transfer belt by hand, so I have made a hand-driver (go ahead and laugh, wazza) to make it easier to rotate without wearing your fingertips raw.

                      I got my Christmas present early this year. It's a digital camera. I'll take a few pix once I figure out how it works. =^..^=
                      If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
                      1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
                      2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
                      3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
                      4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
                      5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

                      blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

                      Comment

                      • bilyahn
                        Service Manager

                        1,000+ Posts
                        • Dec 2006
                        • 1470

                        #12
                        As for the primer dust I always use toner from the waste toner container that way you don't need to be frugal with the powder. Haven't seen any issues with this but then our customers are not that picky.

                        Good luck.

                        Bil

                        Comment

                        • OMD-227

                          #13
                          If the primary transfer belt is refurbished/rebuilt on a MX2300/2700/3500/4500 machine, you really should use Titanium Hydroxide (UKOG-0322FCZZ). All other MX color machines transfer belts use regular Kynar Powder (UKOG-0123FCZZ).

                          When I do a belt refurb, I have found the best way is to rub the surface of the belt with the dusting bag quite firmly, almost polishing the surface. Once the whole belt is covered & polished, install the cleaning unit and rotate the belt one full turn (easily driving the main drive gear with a regular screwdriver Dave), then remove the cleaning unit, wipe off excess powder and/or any loose material on the blade with one pass wipe, the reinstall the cleaning unit. Reinstall the belt unit into the machine, then run 50 sets of sim 64-05. This will print 100 pages. This is the perfect running-in of the belt & blade. If you get through that print run without any problems, you're good to go, if smudges start to appear, just remove the cleaning unit, wipe off the blade & reinstall. Run that same test again and it wont come back.

                          2 things you need to know.....

                          The first MX color series is only 600dpi with varying color density, so I hope this machine hasnt been sold into a very color critical client, because you are going to have alot of trouble.
                          120gsm paper is only to be used from the bypass tray on the heavy paper setting. The first series M color machines dont support heavy paper (106-209gsm) from the standard trays. Running heavy paper for even a short time from the standard trays will give both poor fusing & jamming as well as premature wear on the belts as the paper is passing too fast.

                          Basically mate, the samples you have given show minor issues with the primary belt (as well as the dent mark you have caused accidentally). The belt unit/frame/rollers should be thoroughly cleaned & belt replaced & primed using the correct methods if you want this to work properly. Although, in an emergency Bill has a good idea using the waste toner.

                          Comment

                          • blackcat4866
                            Master Of The Obvious

                            Site Contributor
                            10,000+ Posts
                            • Jul 2007
                            • 22996

                            #14
                            Hand Driver Transfer.JPG

                            For me, the AF350 fuser knobs are plentiful, and the gear can be scavenged from a discarded main drive assembly, or ordered for the purpose. Epoxy was not enough to keep the gear attached to the steel shaft, so this one is pinned and epoxy (overkill, as usual). =^..^=
                            If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
                            1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
                            2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
                            3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
                            4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
                            5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

                            blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

                            Comment

                            • OMD-227

                              #15
                              You are seriously too much Dave.

                              A regular philips screwdriver is all you need, but as usual, you've gone above & beyond.

                              Comment

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