AR-M257 light/void area...

[RascalMJ]

Working on an AR-M257 that several techs have been out on previously.

The machine has had several PM's within the last couple months (techs following up other techs not knowing what they did....etc)

I went out today to get a good handle on what is going on. The 2 files aren't the greatest samples (those ended up in the trash, oops)... but hopefully it will give someone enough to go on:

The first one is the original, it has a lot of grey and green color in the "blocks" and doesn't scan well, but you can CLEARLY see the defined blocks and "wording"".

The 2nd file is the one with the void across the bottom of the of the page where it says "Step up to hybrid heat". You can see the block has a portion of it where it is MUCH lighter than the rest. This happens in the same spot, no matter the file or orientation (if orientation is switched (portrait/landscaoe) the light/void area starts at the top left in the word "comfort" of Reliable comfort season after season" and continues down the length of the page. If the actual page is flipped upside down, the light void area follows the machine (ie... the light void area would then be at the top of the page. I hope that makes sense.

The light/void area is about an inch and a half. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Like I mentioned above. New drum, new DV, New m/c, blade, transfer unit/roller (AR310TX), I even think a new DV Unit was put in to troubleshoot at one point, fuser was cleaned up from debri...etc. The copy count is currently only at 250k

The only other thing I can think of without "backtracking" over the other replaced parts is the LSU?

[RascalMJ]

Re: AR-M257 light/void area...

For anyone SUPER interested in more info that may or may not be connected...

I had another file that I scanned "original2"

Everything looks good, it's another kind of "greyish background though" so the bottom doesn't show very well, but the interesting thing is, if you look at file "RightSideUp" you can see the "light/void area mentioned above on the top of the page more noticeable on the left hand side at the bottom of the "crescent shape".

However, if I flip this page upside down see file "UpsideDown", it does not even "see" the greyish background and shows clear white. Cresent shape at the top is fine because the light/void would be at the bottom, but the text deosn't go down far enough.

I know these machines are finicky at times about shading backgrounds and such, but I have never seen one try to copy it one way, flip it over and have it completely ignore it.

Does this give an indication of the problem?

[Akitu]

Re: AR-M257 light/void area...

If you're having no issues with printing, then the problem must be in the optics system.

There is a possibility your mirrors are out of alignment, and that would explain why it only occurs one way. Else, you have a problem with your laser slit glass and you'll likely need to take it out and inspect/clean it, but that doesn't meet the above condition.

Getting a laser out of one of these things is only slightly less of a pain than removing the tray 1 feed tires...

[RascalMJ]

Re: AR-M257 light/void area...

If you're having no issues with printing, then the problem must be in the optics system.

There is a possibility your mirrors are out of alignment, and that would explain why it only occurs one way. Else, you have a problem with your laser slit glass and you'll likely need to take it out and inspect/clean it, but that doesn't meet the above condition.

Getting a laser out of one of these things is only slightly less of a pain than removing the tray 1 feed tires...

Today I cleaned areas of the optics I could get to with canned air and a lint free cloth easily, but I will admit.... I am not a pro in that area.

I did forget to mention that printing was NOT available at the time. They had the system set up to print via usb, but the computer was out of service. I tried to run some list prints and things, but had limited success getting text down to that area. I am currently back at our office downloading the drivers to see if my laptop will work tomorrow (windows 7 64bit via usb).

They did mention that when faxes come in.... they are usually fine (couldn't get much more out of them than that). While I was there several faxes came in that looked pretty god, but hard to tell for sure because there were lines and other issues that might have been from the senders fax.

I hear ya on the Laser unit. I had to replace one a few years ago when I was REALLY a rookie. YIKES. Partially why I didn't try to do it today and I am looking for advice first. ha. I had one back at the office that I will take with me tomorrow.

If mirrors are out of alignment.... what is involved in that? Is there a SIM or some other kind of adjustment?

[Akitu]

Re: AR-M257 light/void area...

Optics are fairly easy. I use a similar cloth and wrap it around the ends of a small standard/phillips screwdriver to get the one mirror just below the lamp. Just remove the screws and glass etc., and clean what you can.

These lasers still aren't as bad as some other ones, but still no fun regardless.

Sim 64-1 will give you internal prints, alternatively you can copy a 22-6 printout - it's text, but the idea is the same.

If mirrors are out of alignment, there's no easy way to correct it. Check your manual under section 7 - adjustments, settings. Mechanical adjustments 6-10 will be the ones you want to look for.

[RascalMJ]

Optics are fairly easy. I use a similar cloth and wrap it around the ends of a small standard/phillips screwdriver to get the one mirror just below the lamp. Just remove the screws and glass etc., and clean what you can.

These lasers still aren't as bad as some other ones, but still no fun regardless.

Sim 64-1 will give you internal prints, alternatively you can copy a 22-6 printout - it's text, but the idea is the same.

If mirrors are out of alignment, there's no easy way to correct it. Check your manual under section 7 - adjustments, settings. Mechanical adjustments 6-10 will be the ones you want to look for.

Yeah, that's pretty much what I did for the optics.

Thanks for the other tips, it'll give me somewhere too start tomorrow

[blackcat4866]

Re: AR-M257 light/void area...

I think it might help you to get an orange original, then use exposure to darken or lighten the image until you get a 25% fill over the whole page.

If you do decide to venture into optical focus, I would start by using my nail polish or Sharpie marker to mark existing settings before you change anything. In the worst possible outcome you can restore to the original settings. Pages 35 through 40 should help guide you through the optical adjustments. My recommendation is to start with very small incremental adjustments.

Have fun! =^..^=

[RascalMJ]

I think it might help you to get an orange original, then use exposure to darken or lighten the image until you get a 25% fill over the whole page.

If you do decide to venture into optical focus, I would start by using my nail polish or Sharpie marker to mark existing settings before you change anything. In the worst possible outcome you can restore to the original settings. Pages 35 through 40 should help guide you through the optical adjustments. My recommendation is to start with very small incremental adjustments.

Have fun! =^..^=

Hhhmmmm, I have never heard of the Orange original trick.

Do you mean literally, like a piece of Orange paper, or something with mostly Orange print?

[blackcat4866]

Re: AR-M257 light/void area...

Literally orange paper. In my set of test originals I always have a few pages of orange paper to show any unevenness of fill. On the analogs the manufacturers advised use of a "newspaper original" when setting auto exposure. Same effect, but more consistent over the whole page. =^..^=

[RascalMJ]

Literally orange paper. In my set of test originals I always have a few pages of orange paper to show any unevenness of fill. On the analogs the manufacturers advised use of a "newspaper original" when setting auto exposure. Same effect, but more consistent over the whole page. =^..^=

Wow, great tip.

So then you just keep making copies (varying exposure) to help get even distribution?

[blackcat4866]

Re: AR-M257 light/void area...

The idea is to try to identify patterns in the half tone. Patterns like you might identify from:

A charge problem, like voids in the feed direction
A re-occurring defect, like from a roller
A drum ground problem, like voids or bars crossfeed
or a focus problem, like the background fading out toward one side or another.

=^..^=

[RascalMJ]

The idea is to try to identify patterns in the half tone. Patterns like you might identify from:

A charge problem, like voids in the feed direction
A re-occurring defect, like from a roller
A drum ground problem, like voids or bars crossfeed
or a focus problem, like the background fading out toward one side or another.

=^..^=

Ah, that makes sense

THANKS

[RascalMJ]

Re: AR-M257 light/void area...

Well, I couldn't find any orange paper, but I took a full page high quality photo with me that was mostly dark yellow.

Did several sky shots that all had the same 1 1/2 inch void/light area on it, at the same spot every time, and always from the top of the machine. The photo showed the same results.

I took several items with me to troubleshoot (Process unit, transfer roller assembly....etc) and nothing seemed to get rid of the problem. I am still leaning towards the LSU, but open to suggestions.

THANKS

[Akitu]

Re: AR-M257 light/void area...

As suggested, LSU issue or optics are out of alignment.

[RascalMJ]

Re: AR-M257 light/void area...

As suggested, LSU issue or optics are out of alignment.

I am hoping for the first (oddly enough) because I know nothing about optic alignment. At least I have replaced an LSU before.

Thanks for the help.

I appreciate it.