Kyoceramita Km4035 Problems

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  • Elridge
    Technician
    • Jun 2009
    • 43

    #1

    Kyoceramita Km4035 Problems

    Kyoceramita KM4035 takes 120sec to come to ready. It should only take 25sec from a cold start. If the machine is turned ON, then immediately turned OFF then ON again, it comes to ready within 25sec, from a cold start. I used a power supply from a working KM3035 in the KM4035, now the KM3035 is having the exact fuser problem as the KM4035. Sometimes there will be a double image as though the heat roller does not heat up good enough to melt the toner. My heat roller is not worn.

    I removed the fuser cover and turned the machine on. I saw that both lamps do turn on. One thing I noticed was both lamps were turning on and off for the entire 120sec until the machine came to ready. Is this normal for the lamps to do this. I would think that both lamps would be on for the full 25sec, then go out once the machine comes to ready. When testing the continuity on the thermistors, a good one should read infinity and I should get continuity across a bad one. From what I can remember that is the correct way to test thermistors. I'm getting continuity across both of my thermistors.

    Is it normal for the machine to power off then on once the voltage is checked across the main board YC1 pin 1? Once the leads are connected it powers off, when the leads are disconnected the machine power back on.




    Thanks for your assistance.
  • robscopyr
    Technician

    50+ Posts
    • Mar 2009
    • 54

    #2
    Thermistor testing

    You are incorrect about how to test a thermistor; you should have some sort of reading @ the meter when testing a good thermistor, and if you place your thumb on it while testing the resistance should go down, a bad thermistor will not change as heat is applied to the surface. I would try repacing the thermistors, or swapping out the fuser to see if that fixes the problem.

    Comment

    • blackcat4866
      Master Of The Obvious

      Site Contributor
      10,000+ Posts
      • Jul 2007
      • 22870

      #3
      Are you sure that this is a fuser issue?

      Something as simple as a toner-low condition could cause the machine to take longer to reach "Ready". =^..^=
      If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
      1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
      2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
      3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
      4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
      5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

      blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

      Comment

      • Elridge
        Technician
        • Jun 2009
        • 43

        #4
        Kyoceramita KM4035

        With all due respect, I have a manual and have made a number of checks and tests. I only use this type of a forum whenever I run into a strange problem.
        It's true that a toner problem can cause a machine to take longer than normal to come to ready. However, this does not same to be the problem this time. If this was a toner problem you would usaully hear the machine trying to add toner. After the machine has come to ready and powered off for about 10mins. It always goes through the same process of taking 120sec to come to ready, everytime. I had a working KM3035 and swapped the power supply and now the exact same problem that the KM4035 is having I'm experiencing it with the KM3035. The reason why it's a concern is because ocassionally I will get double image and for my customer, this is not acceptable. Unfortunately I do not have another KM30,40,5035 to compare checks and tests.

        Comment

        • Tebow83
          Technician

          50+ Posts
          • May 2009
          • 92

          #5
          I dont know about your exact problem but swap the fuser as stated earlier. I had a problem with a km5035 when the motors kept running long after the copying was finished and upgrading the firmware sorted it. So maybe you could also try that.

          Comment

          • Setright
            FSS / SPM

            100+ Posts
            • Nov 2008
            • 247

            #6
            As I recall from working on these machines (2 years ago now) the fuser lamps would flicker during the entire warm up period, so something doesn't sound right.

            If the machine is trying to add toner you should be able to hear the solenoid click.

            BE AWARE, there a some OEM machines and similar model types that use a toner cartridge that LOOKS like the same one, but they do have different size/type gears at the rear, meaning toner filling will not function correctly. It's too long ago for me to recall the toner part number (TK75H ???) accurately, but I would suggest you check that the toner cartridge is the correct one for that specific model.

            Comment

            • copyaction
              Senior Tech

              Site Contributor
              500+ Posts
              • Oct 2007
              • 980

              #7
              Wasn't there a sim for fuser type on these after a newer style was released?

              Comment

              • Setright
                FSS / SPM

                100+ Posts
                • Nov 2008
                • 247

                #8
                Apart from a fast wearing surface on the heat roller and collapsing bearings, I don't recall any other intial weaknesses. Those were both fixed.

                Comment

                • robscopyr
                  Technician

                  50+ Posts
                  • Mar 2009
                  • 54

                  #9
                  Fuser type

                  See the attachment. And... did you test the thermistor? or swap the fuser yet? I notice that you have been changing out boards, but not the component that you think the problem is originating from.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment

                  • vikingmita
                    Trusted Tech

                    100+ Posts
                    • Nov 2008
                    • 163

                    #10
                    time is money, so i'd do this (unless you absolutely want to spend time to really get to the bottom of it):
                    1. swap fuser
                    2. fw
                    3. swap engine board (5035 and 4035 is the same, 3035 different)

                    here i assume that you already changed the power board. not that i think that the power board is the culprit here. my guess is engine board, and secoundary new fw. (but fw comes first b/c is't a whole lot easier than ripping out the engine and split your nails doing it)

                    Comment

                    • Elridge
                      Technician
                      • Jun 2009
                      • 43

                      #11
                      Kyoceramita KM4035 Fuser Problem



                      When I tested my thermistor I got continuity across both of them. I always thought that continuity across a thermistor meant that it was bad, however I was told otherwise.
                      I am using OEM toner.
                      I want to upgrade my main firmware but I am having a problem getting it. I was told that I should use a 16MB Flash Card because the larger ones tend not to work. I was fortunate to come across a 32MB Flash Card; however I can not get the Firmware.

                      Comment

                      • robscopyr
                        Technician

                        50+ Posts
                        • Mar 2009
                        • 54

                        #12
                        to the newbie (nooB)

                        FW= Firmware
                        b/c=because

                        You must not be an authorized Kyocera Dealer, or you would not be having trouble w/ upgrading fw. There are firmware updates that deal with the fusing problems on these machines.
                        Not that I mean to offend, but... if you're not qualified, or have not taken courses on this machine, you may want to pass it off to someone that has. The 3035 series (falcon 1) are great machines, require little maintenance, and run great if the tech that services them knows all the little tricks that are req'd. I am not doubting your ability as a technician, but I would never try to repair another brand of machine w/o (without) knowing something about it B4(before) I started tearing out boards and swapping parts.
                        I still say you need to swap out the fuser with a "KNOWN GOOD" fuser, even if it means purchasing a new one, fusers are much cheaper than boards.

                        Comment

                        • kjg
                          Trusted Tech

                          100+ Posts
                          • Mar 2009
                          • 112

                          #13
                          FW and Fuser swap

                          These machines had a slew of firmware updates for difficulties with the fuser units. They usually has c6000 -6050 codes. I agree with robscopyr with upgrading to latest fw (if you can get it) and replacing the fuser even though it looks good. These are very good engines and after updates have few problems. Good for a few million. I have one with 7+ million on it.
                          (Hello to robscopyr I see your posts over on the OTHER dealer site I am pretty sure these are falcon 2 engines though, falcon 1 were 2530,3530,4030 just as a friendly correction. hope you don't mind the jab. )

                          One last possibility, check your outlet and see if power is not contribution to the problem. Check neutral line and current draw on circuit. high current draw on circuit always raise neutral line voltage which is not good for any copier.

                          Comment

                          • robscopyr
                            Technician

                            50+ Posts
                            • Mar 2009
                            • 54

                            #14
                            falcon shmalcon

                            I always get that mixed up... I have to make a mistake now and then or people start telling me what a perfect A-hole I am

                            Comment

                            • geichris

                              #15
                              Have had the exact problem you describe on several units recently. All were a bad power supply.

                              Comment

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