C250i fuser?

[copyman]

Does the attached picture look like issue with fuser? My customer emailed me the sample. This account is 2 hours away and would like to have fuser with me if there is a possibility of it being issue. Of course I'll bring trans belt, K drum just in case.

I been reading on this forum about the issues with the old style fuser. Also the bulletins. My supplier still shows the old part # AA2JR75200. Will this fuser have the filter & plate that is shown in the bulletin or do I need to get the new part # which think ends in 300?

Thanks in advance

[KMFLT3CH]

AA2JR75200 is the newest part number for U.S. and does include the filter, etc.

300 is different voltage.

[copyman]

AA2JR75200 is the newest part number for U.S. and does include the filter, etc.

300 is different voltage.

Thanks for info. Does that sample in my OP look like fuser issue?
Is it necessay to install the filter & plate? Also read about firmware being up to date and turning on engine sw 12 & 40? Not sure if an old bulletin I was looking at so not sure of exact procedure?
Thanks again!

[KMFLT3CH]

Thanks for info. Does that sample in my OP look like fuser issue?
Is it necessay to install the filter & plate? Also read about firmware being up to date and turning on engine sw 12 & 40? Not sure if an old bulletin I was looking at so not sure of exact procedure?
Thanks again!

I'm not seeing any attachment in the thread.

I do the filter because it takes 5 seconds to pop in. The plate I don't think makes a difference, but I'll install it 95% of the time. I've seen a few machines with the plate, engine switches and new fuser installed still go bad less than a year later depending on volume, the fusers just don't last. They are quiet though.. quieter than the 8 and 9 series. G00-RB (switch 25 HEX 40) is the minimum base firmware you should be using with the newer fusers.

As far as I know this is still the latest bulletin for the i-series fusers: 13643.pdf

[copyman]

I've attached the sample on OP. I will order the plate & filter with part #'s in the bulletin.

[KMFLT3CH]

Yes, from my experience toner rubbing off like that is going to be the fuser.

[tsbservice]

Does the attached picture look like issue with fuser? My customer emailed me the sample. This account is 2 hours away and would like to have fuser with me if there is a possibility of it being issue. Of course I'll bring trans belt, K drum just in case.

I been reading on this forum about the issues with the old style fuser. Also the bulletins. My supplier still shows the old part # AA2JR75200. Will this fuser have the filter & plate that is shown in the bulletin or do I need to get the new part # which think ends in 300?

Thanks in advance

It's definitely fuser. Order latest part number for your region and it should be with all included.
If you have on stock older(part number) fusers you can put them too.

[copier tech]

Does the attached picture look like issue with fuser? My customer emailed me the sample. This account is 2 hours away and would like to have fuser with me if there is a possibility of it being issue. Of course I'll bring trans belt, K drum just in case.

I been reading on this forum about the issues with the old style fuser. Also the bulletins. My supplier still shows the old part # AA2JR75200. Will this fuser have the filter & plate that is shown in the bulletin or do I need to get the new part # which think ends in 300?

Thanks in advance

Yes, if the print is rubbing off I would say fuser issue. HOWEVER did you check they have the paper weight set correctly for that tray ? For the sake of a 2hr drive & the cost of a fuser get them to set the tray to say thick 2.

[Oystercopy]

I was able to successfully change my customer's fuser temp setting (to Thick 1 or 2) on their drivers to compensate for this issue, and its been several months since I've been back with no issues. I wanted/needed time to research and find out what was going on and I just never have been back out there yet. I intend to go back and install that plate (what that does I have no idea?) but I haven't installed any fusers to combat this issue yet and I have no idea what the "new" style fuser is and what's been changed on it. But I've been given some good advice on this forum about how to handle it, so once i go back out there, i can report back.

But at least you can compensate by changing all their drivers to default to a Thick mode in the interim, which should fix it.
OC

[SAR]

KM tech support has had us change the fusing transport speed to -7 (it's usually set to +7 at default) and to raise fusing temp +10c.
If this doesn't fix the smearing issue, you need to replace the fuser with the new style fuser and settings like others have mentioned before.
Since it's far away, you would probably be better off replacing the fuser, but we have had success changing the fuser speed and temp.

[femaster]

I've attached the sample on OP. I will order the plate & filter with part #'s in the bulletin.

The new style fuser should come with the filter (which is only supposed to be installed in the COLOR models for some reason), the metal spacer plate, and a longer screw. The filter is just an oversided ozone filter, nothing special about it. The metal plate should only be used with the new style fuser. If the fuser you have (or receive) is still the older style/model, don't install the plate or change the engine switch settings.

The metal plate is the same plate they have been using since the 4-series machines. If you have a parts machine, you can just take a plate from one of those. The original screw can still be used as it is long enough, even with the addition of the extra plate.

[tsbservice]

I'm not seeing any attachment in the thread.

I do the filter because it takes 5 seconds to pop in. The plate I don't think makes a difference, but I'll install it 95% of the time. I've seen a few machines with the plate, engine switches and new fuser installed still go bad less than a year later depending on volume, the fusers just don't last. They are quiet though.. quieter than the 8 and 9 series. G00-RB (switch 25 HEX 40) is the minimum base firmware you should be using with the newer fusers.

As far as I know this is still the latest bulletin for the i-series fusers: 13643.pdf

I do started to work on KMs when they switched 8 series to i series so we have mainly 4e, 8, 8e and i fleet.
The more you push them the better they perform.
Most fusers never reach stated life the few they do are on our most used machines.
So old style or new style they are not going to reach high mileage unless machine is well used. As modern MFPS are mainly used as scanners 95% of fusers die prematurely.
As side note we set them to sleep/low power at 15 minutes.

[AlaskaCopyTech]

Just going to put it out there that you could try increasing the fuser temp to see if that helps the issue while the other fuser is enroute.

[4Toon]

New fuser needs FW: G00-N4 or higher, and for a c250i Engine DipSw 12 and 40 need to be set to ON and SW 54 to OFF. The plate should definitely be installed.

[copyman]

Update, New fuser came with all parts listed on bulletin. Installed plate, latest base F/W & set engine F/W according to bulletin. All good now.
On another note, this C250i only has 38k on meter, can these fusers be modified or rebuilt with aftermarket parts to work? I've rebuilt fusers since the C253 series with good results. Shame to trash a fuser with only 38k. Also a shame Kon/Min would put crap like this out there!